In Class Presentation of Historical Character

These are screen shots from the presentation I delivered to my class about my historical character. I talked my audience through my chosen character and scene before presenting my mood board of ideas and research inspiration. I finished with my hair and makeup designs, explaining my reasoning behind the design and showing pictures of trial applications. 

The feedback I received from my presentation was:

• Play around with eyebrow shapes
• Include more images of 'real' women
• Good mood board & overview of the scene
• Good understanding of Sally Bowles 
• Better understanding of 1930s hair than 1930s makeup
• Experiment more with makeup with more info to support 
• Second makeup design is good however change the lip shape

Anita Berber Black & White

I took the image from my Anita Berber continuity assessment and put a black and white filter on it in photoshop to give the image a 1930s effect. I think the look is really effective with the filter. 

Anita Berber Continuity P2

These are the second set of images produced for the Anita Berber continuity assessment.
Continuity wise, the makeup is very similar, I feel I replicated this well. This hairstyle, however, looks a lot neater than the first, the curls are more prominent and the whole style is a little sleeker and smoother than before. I definitely need to work on replicating hairstyles concisely for continuity purposes. I need to note the directions of the curls and the exact placing in order to replicate the exact style. Apart from this, and standing alone, I am pleased with the outcome of these images, especially shot with a professional camera and lighting. 

Anita Berber Continuity P1

Over two studio lessons, we are to partner up and create our own historical interpretation of Anita Berber on each other. We have 45 minutes each to complete the hair and makeup. The following week, we are to recreate the same look to test our continuity.  

The makeup products I used for this assessment were:

-       Kryolan Foundation Palette
-       Illamasqua Translucent Loose Powder
-       Maybelline Great Lash Mascara (Very Black)
-       NYX Eyebrow Palette
-       MAC Chromagraphic Pencil (Basic Red)
-       Sleek Eyeshadow Palette (Bad Girl)
-       Bobbi Brown Lipstick (No. 10 RED)
-       Rimmel London Lipstick (No. 170 ALARM)
-       Illamasqua Powder Blush (Ambition)

The products and equipment I used for the hair style were:

-       Hair brushes
-       Grips and hair ties
-       Curling tongs
-       Dry Shampoo
-       Hair Spray

How I created the hairstyle...

1  Brush through the hair and spritz with dry shampoo
2   Part the hair slightly off centre
3   In sections, take pieces of hair around the parting (top layer of hair) and curl using curling tongs
4   Carefully slide the hair off of the tong and grip in place to cool
5   Using the curling tongs, curl the hair around the front of the hair line towards the back of the head and also secure
6   Back comb the rest of the hair, working from the bottom upwards
7   Loosely gather the back combed hair and tie at the end with a hair tie
8   Starting at the tie, roll the hair underneath, around your fingers, to the nape of the neck
9   Secure at the nape with grips
10   Tease around the face and secure with hair spray
11  Release the curls and loosen over the backcombed bob
12  Secure with hairspray
13  Brush back the side of the hair and pin discreetly.

Trialling the hair design on a dolls head

THE OUTCOME

Due to unfortunate circumstances, my partner (Terri-Anne) and I were unable to create our first Anita Berber look on the scheduled assessment day. Instead, we were able to do it in our own time which meant we didn't have a professional camera to take the photos.
These are the images produced from the assessment. 

I am really pleased with the outcome of this first assessment, especially the hairstyle. I'd only ever practised on a dolls head and I was pleased and relieved to have the style work really well on an actual model too.  There are, annoyingly, a lot of fly aways with the hairstyle. Had I of considered this before, I would have tried to tame them with a comb and hairspray.  

Who was Anita Berber?

Anita Berber was a German dancer, during the Weimar period, who was most famously the subject of a painting by Otto Dix. Berber made her debut as a cabaret dancer aged 16 and by 20 she was working in film and dancing nude. She became very popular very quickly, largely thanks to her controversial androgyny as well as fearless self-expression.

'The Dancer Anita Berber' by Otto Dix

Despite being a woman of the black-and-white photo and film era, Berber favoured heavy makeup which would come across very dark in photographs. She’d apply lipstick to emphasis the cupid’s bow of her lips and would apply heavy charcoal eye makeup. She had bright red hair cut into a short bob and wore very little clothing.

Berber’s serious drug addiction were made very public, her favourite was to eat white rose petals soaked in chloroform and ether. On top of her drug problem, she was also an alcoholic. She died aged 29, allegedly found surrounded by empty syringes.

Anita Berber

Anita Berber - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. 2014. Anita Berber - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. [ONLINE] Available at:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anita_Berber. [Accessed 25 October 2014].

BruceS — nitratediva: Weimar cabaret goddess Anita Berber.... 2014.BruceS — nitratediva: Weimar cabaret goddess Anita Berber.... [ONLINE] Available at: http://brucesterling.tumblr.com/post/60888693735/nitratediva-weimar-cabaret-goddess-anita-berber. [Accessed 25 October 2014].

Anita Berber | Cabaret Berlin. 2014. Anita Berber | Cabaret Berlin. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.cabaret-berlin.com/?p=365. [Accessed 25 October 2014].

Tech File: Bobs and Curling for 1930s Hair

Hair & Makeup of Sally Bowles in Cabaret (1972)

 Liza Minnelli as Sally Bowles in 1972 film, Cabaret

In the film Cabaret, Sally Bowles is defined by her short, edgy hairstyle and big doll eyes. Her thin eyebrows leave plenty of lid space for a wash of baby blue eye shadow and white eyeliner. Her eyes are framed with long thick eyelashes. Sally has subtle rouge on her cheekbones, peachy-red lips and a beauty spot on below her left eye. She’s also sporting her signature green nail varnish which is ‘divine decadence darling!’

It appears the designers had an understanding of 1930s makeup trends as I feel the essence of this period was captured in her makeup though maybe over exaggerated.

I feel the essence of 1930s makeup is captured however it is over exaggerated. The hair of Sally Bowles doesn’t reflect the popular styles of the 1930s however the typical styles were styled on other female characters, this was probably to make Sally stand out as a key character in Cabaret. 

 liza minnelli cabaret bob fosse sally bowles gif - Gifwave . 2014. liza minnelli cabaret bob fosse sally bowles gif - Gifwave . [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.gifwave.com/3HTu/liza-minnelli-cabaret-bob-fosse-sally-bowles-gif. [Accessed 24 October 2014].

The Many Faces of Sally Bowles

A lot of women have portrayed Sally Bowles in both film, television and theatre. It is insightful to see how these portrayals are physically presented and understand how the hair and makeup designers have interpreted the character. They all vary hugely and give me ample of inspiration for how I want my Sally Bowles to look. 

A collage of pictures, the various women who have portrayed Sally Bowles or similar. 

Sally Bowles Mood Board

This mood board reflects my interpretation of Sally Bowles. Cabaret is set in the very early 30s, in fact my chosen scene (Act One Scene 4) takes place on the very last evening of the 1920s as they celebrate New Years Eve 1929. 

 Therefore I want to maintain a 20s vibe and honour the transition of eras through costume and accessories whilst creating a 30s hair and makeup. 

Post 10 & 11

Post 10 - Actioning 
If I were to choose an active verb for Act 1 Scene 4, it would be to entertain. Incorporating this into the hair and makeup of my character, Sally, I envision fun, voluminous hair, a bold red lip and an all round flawless face. 

Jean Harlow

Post 11 - Score the text 

Some active verbs I have chosen for Sally to consider are... 

• to entertain
• to celebrate 
• to engage
• to welcome 

THE PINK FLAMINGO: 1930's makeup. 2014. THE PINK FLAMINGO: 1930's makeup. [ONLINE] Available at:http://tpflamingo.blogspot.co.uk/2011/05/1930s-makeup.html. [Accessed 30 November 2014].

Posts 6 - 9

Post 6 – What does Sally want?

Sally wants success and recognition. She enjoys entertaining at The Kit Kat Klub but she ultimately wants to be discovered for her talent and whisked away to Hollywood where she can fulfil a successful career as an actress. She wants attention, she wants love, she wants to be an icon. 

Post 7 – Why does Sally want it?

Sally wants to be a star and she wants to be remembered, she wants to leave her mark on the world through an acting legacy. 

Post 8 – Why does Sally want it now?

She’s been stuck in Berlin for 3 months, she thought success would come more easily and she is getting impatient waiting for her big break.

Post 9 – What will happen if Sally doesn’t get it now?

Sally’s patience is wearing thin, she may just go back to Britain, especially if she runs out of money. She will continue schmoozing men with potential connections in order to increase her chances of gaining fame.